Valençay

We read about this town with its chateau in a French guide. It is about 30 kilometres south of our campsite so didn't take long to drive there this morning. It has been a beautiful day for weather and for me Valençay was well-worth while. It was the home of Tallyrand, the famous, and for many, infamous politician, cleric and diplomat of the French revolutionary period from 1789 to the treaty of Vienna and beyond to the revolution of 1830. He was at the Estates General (representing the First Estate) and swore the tennis court oath; he fled The Terror; he was in the Directorate; aided Napoleon and was made a prince in recognition; betrayed Napoleon at the end, representing France at Vienna; then to cap it all intrigued in the 1830 revolution to see Louis Philippe crowned king. In his book Citizens, Simon Schama hasn't a good word for him, but he was a survivor politician of his time and believed he was bringing "Order Out Of Chaos". 

This is the splendid Gare SNCF at Valençay. I'm not sure it's very usefully connected to anywhere anymore, but my word is it impressive.

These are the sort of terraces and grand spaces upon which those who ruled us could walk in private safety whilst planning what was going to happen next to our ancestors. Napoleon helped Tallyrand acquire this place as a diplomatic sanctuary for such intriguing with foreign nobility.

With a view across one's enormous domain.

Inside the staterooms and private salons are a restrained and reasonably tasteful version of Empire style.

There was no mention in the commentary on the rooms, but it became clear that an ex-wife was downstairs whilst the current mistress of Valençay was upstairs in this gorgeous green-themed bedchamber.

Below is said to be one of France's best examples of an Empire style stateroom. It is the bedchamber for the King of Spain (a relative of Napoleon's who had to be forcibly hauled out the mess he had created there).

And because we are now in a democratic age the kitchens have been opened up. This is quite the largest cast-iron range I've ever seen. It seems as though much of the restoration work and new addition were made in 1902.

Throughout the afternoon the light changed, improve and many images were taken of this lovely chateau.

This is the west facade of the house and the parkland before it is currently under reconstruction into a garden appropriate to its genre. We will return to see how it works out.